I was thinking this morning that I really need to spend more time studying modern technology because I’m close to becoming silly Aunt Sam who doesn’t know if I’m uploading, downloading or just going into sleep mode.
It led me onto watches and, how rarely we hear about brands boasting about new technology, compared to how often they hark back to their heritage, releasing re-editions of the same models or “vintage inspired” pieces. As watch enthusiasts, are we inclined to stick with what we know, compared to embracing new ideas and concepts?
I eagerly nodded along when speaking to the marketing manager of a brand last week as she showed me the latest version of one of their iconic watches. The Average Jo might not be able to tell any difference between the original and the re-release, but I appreciated the small updates that they’d made, without really changing the spirit of the watch.
Let’s use this opportunity to take a look at some of the icons (currently in stock, of course) and why we still love them today.
Founded in 1847, Cartier began by producing high-end jewellery and fashionable wristwatches. Within the following 80 years, they would release their most iconic watches – the Santos in 1904, the Tank in 1917 and the Ceinture in 1927. Today’s modern day equivalents don’t stray far from the original releases with those iconic case shapes and Roman numerals. And while they may have played around with some materials and fitted modern-day movements, the designs remain classic and elegant.
The Omega Speedmaster is one of the most well-loved horological instruments by watch enthusiasts. It conjures up images of space travel, brave astronauts and pioneering technology. Yet today, we prefer our Speedmasters to remain as faithful to the original as possible. Some prefer the First Omega in Space to the Moonwatch however there’s no denying that a sapphire crystal is better suited to the 21st century and who doesn’t love a co-axial escapement?
Far from being the second edition of the Explorer, the Explorer II is a different watch entirely. It was created in 1971 for use by cave explorers who would often work underground for many days at a time and in the darkness, losing track of day or night. As such, the first Explorer II featured a fixed 24-hour bezel, a large, brightly coloured, luminous arrow-shaped 24-hour hand and a date function
Today’s reference 226570 still has the traits of its predecessors with modern-day upgrades. The 42mm steel case is water resistant to 100m and features a Twinlock crown for increased waterproofness. The dial is highlighted with an orange 24-hour hand and Rolex’s “Chromalight” luminescent glows blue in low light.
The Zenith El Primero could be described as one of the most important movements in the history of watchmaking. Meaning “The First” in Spanish, in 1969 the El Primero claims to have beaten its competition to become the first automatic chronograph. Zenith chose the A384 as the watch to present this movement to the world, and some 50 years later, released this Revival as a celebration of that original watch. Not only is it a celebration, but a faithful reproduction of the 1969 watch with identical proportions. The movement is a modern version of the original 1969 movement, featuring 278 components and offering a 50-hour power reserve.
Oris have been making watches for pilots for well over 80 years with the introduction of the Big Crown in 1938, featuring an oversized crown for use by pilots wearing leather gloves. These two pieces – the GMT and “Wings of Hope” take inspiration from those early pieces yet subtle updates make them suitable for everyday wear in 2025. The “Wings of Hope” features Oris’ Calibre 401 movement which boasts a five-day power reserve, 10-year recommended service intervals and a 10-year warranty.
While most enthusiasts lean towards classic designs, there are some bold enough to try something a little different. For those, I would recommend the following three watches:
The Code 41 features some classic watch design elements – an hour and minute hand in a circular dial and a date function at 6 o’clock. However, the carbon case, skeletonised dial, exhibition back and circular rotor weight give this watch a futuristic feel.
Max Busser is renowned for creating horological masterpieces, pushing the boundaries of engineering and design. The MAD1 offers a piece of this magic at a fraction of the cost.
Finally, the GPHG-nominated Behrens Apolar is the perfect watch for those wanting something really different. The striking display is visible from various angles underneath a large domed sapphire crystal. The watch features a 24-hour indicator by means of a rotating globe, a 28-day moon phase display, a seconds hand, and two rotating discs to display the hours and minutes. Furthermore, the base of the dial is made from crystallised titanium which has a textured appearance, despite being smooth and catches the light in interesting ways.
For more details of any of the watches mentioned above, visit our shop or get in touch to find out more.
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